![]() I also built an extension so I can mill up to 15' but I'm now in the process for building a new one piece track out of 21' 4"x3" steel angle. The biggest weakness IMO is the two piece track and getting that perfect for straight lumber. Looking at comparable mills I think the HF mill is the best bang for the buck. There is a big learning curve but once all the kinks are worked out this mill will cut superb lumber. So far the harbor freight mill has exceeded my expectations. The band saw outcuts the chainsaw mill 10-1. I'm also working on an improved clamping system and it's looking good so far.I have owned a chainsaw mill and now I own the harbor freight band saw mill. I have more photos, so if something doesn't make sense, email me. Previously there were times when the hand crank would stick or become hard to turn. I made a couple cuts and everything is working better than before. I tapped in the rivets as a temporary attachment for the crank until I get some bolts and nuts to replace them. I sprayed paint the grinded areas to prevent rust. If you've made it this far I probably don't have to describe the reassembly. Once the coupler is welded in place, smear grease the length of the threaded rod, and put it all back together. #Harbor freight sawmill install#You might wanna spot weld it then install it on the mill to make sure it works before filling in the welds. I'm guessing it's not that critical cause mine worked the first try. Weld it in place as straight as possible. Align the the 3/4" coupler in the end of the extending arm that the brass "nut" threaded block came out of. I clamped mine in a piece of angle iron to make sure the pieces lined up perfectly. Make it strong, there's plenty of clearance. The beauty or ugliness of your weld doesn't matter because nobody will ever see it. Weld on a matching length of 3/4" all thread. Cut off the elevator rod in the area between the threads and the smooth section. Have a rag handy as both should be covered in grease. Grind or file off one side of the rivets then punch them through with a small steel rod, nail set, or drift pin. The brass "nut" in the extending arm, as well as the crank handle, are held in place by steel rivets. The extending arm of the elevation control can be removed by turning the hand crank till the extending arm comes off the end of the threaded rod which controls it. Remove the cables from the pulley wheels. I have included photos, but I have no idea what order they'll be in.Įngage the saw head locks, then turn the hand crank to make slack in the cables. This repair took 63 minutes, and I was doddling. It took me about 30 seconds to adjust to turning the crank the opposite direction. If this is unacceptable, get left handed all thread and a left handed coupler, expect to pay a lot more. The end result is your hand crank will be opposite of what it was (cranking direction) and it will be just under 1/4" elevation change per handle rotation. I live in a town population 2900 and the local (very small) hardware store had both. ![]() Both are readily available at hardware stores. Also required is about 15" of 3/4-10 all thread and a matching coupler (nut that is about 2.5 inches long). A file, hack saw, and welder will do it, but an angle grinder and welder make it easy. This fix requires steel grinding equipment, steel cutting equipment, and welding equipment. The saw head is really heavy.įollowing is detailed description of how I remedied this problem. The brass nut stripped, allowing the saw head to fall onto the log I was about to cut. The hand crank is attached to a threaded rod, which drives a threaded brass "nut". ![]() After about 50 cuts the elevation control failed. Once I shortened it everything went together fine (though the clamping system kinda sucks). The only problem was the cross bar for the clamping system. The mill took a couple hours to assemble and was pretty straight forward. I cut up the steel and kept it for future projects. It arrived in cardboard and welded steel packaging. I ordered mine in early July 2012 and received it mid July 2012. The Harbor Freight Central Machinery sawmill in it's 2012 rendition is exactly the same as the Woodland Mills sawmill, without handle grips and a few other niceties. ![]()
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